The visit to The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery at the V&A museum was very inspiring on the history and techniques that jewellers use to create master pieces. The gallery displays ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, thereafter they devoted mainly to the storey of western jewellery. The gallery starts in 1500 BC continuing all the way through the gallery till the work of 2014.
2) Nature Revealed 2004-2011
The natural form also inspires jewellers to create organic pieces. Traditional materials are transformed by the imaginative approach of Vietnamese born jewellery, Sam Tho Dong. The pearls appear to grow out of the blackened bulbous forms beneath, softening them and echoing various natural forms, but particularly the frost. I quite like the texture and shape of the design and how it looks very organic but elegant with its use of pearls.
3) Textile Techniques in Metals and Plastic 1980-1990
Caroline Broadhead - The use of weaving and braiding techniques results in a very unique effect. Caroline Broadhead (Programme Leader and Course Leader, BA Jewellery Design in Central St Martins, UAL) experimented with woven nylon line in the late 1970s. She is inspired by the adjustability of the forms (how it can contract and expand) and the range of possible colours in her designs.
Catherine Martin - uses classical Japanese braiding or kumihimo, transferring it from silk to precious metals which results in a disciplined and regular effect. Her work consists of platinum and gold. Inspiration comes from her passion for being a classical musician. It has been said that She transforms forms according to sound.
Contemporary Applied Arts Galley
The Contemporary Applied Arts Museum was very inspiring to what I was going to learn during the Jewellery Design pathway. To see individual artists helped me to understand visually of there concept and designs on display. The gallery had chosen specific pieces for display relating to the theme “Twas the Night before Christmas”. Most jewellery pieces were made from gold, sliver and precious stones, plastic and ceramics and non-precious materials were displayed alongside.
The New York Times - September 26th, 2014
“Alexandra Jacobs, fashion critic, spied this gem among Olympia’s latest; a T-strap pump adorned with a beaded rendering of a Native American woman. And it seems she had the sneaking suspicion that people would be a little unsettled by the shoe.”
Thoughts: I agree with The New York Times as this particular shoe doesn’t sit well in the fashion industry as fashion has been reducing the cultural iconography of basic humanity of people of colour to accessories.
The Cut - Cat Flat Fever by Allison P Davis
“The Kitty Loafer might be better suited to a 7-year-old, but there's something amusing about a cult of celebrities who wear them with pride. Yes, I have a cat photos on my phone, but instead of showing them to you, I will invest $600 in this clever, self-referential joke that comes in glitter, satin, velvet, or suede.” Also, c'mon. Cats.”
Thoughts: I have mixed feelings about The Cut and there opinions. I do agree that the kitten flat can be worn for a 7-year-old, but there is no harm in women wanting to wear something a bit more cute and quirky.
Gary Pepper - Blog
“A lover of Charlotte Olympia, she amazes me with her beautiful, unique and incredibly chic designs. Each perfectly executed with no faults to note. I feel like she just gets me and everything I would want in a shoe. Simple, classic designs turned into beautiful statement pieces with her gold foil platform or touch of quirkiness”
Metal Workshop Inspiration
From learning the different techniques, process and materials in the workshop. I found some inspirational methods that I want to experiment. Also this helps me when I am sketching my designs ideas, as I have to think about what process I will use to produce that idea. I am mostly interested in using brass and copper material as its the easiest to mould, bend and cut. Furthermore I am focusing on using circular shapes in my design therefore I was interested in learning how to curve the metal.
Web of dreams: The golden web hosts dozens of metallic products
Primary Research - Craft Central
Feathers and Fur Footwear Trend - Sophia Webster X VS Fashion Show 2104
Victoria Secret models strutted down the runway wearing embroidered black side pumps with pinstripes, hearts, and studs, by British Footwear Designer Sophia Webster. This was the perfect combination of colorful, playful and feminine style of shoes to fit the VS 2014 fashion show. My favourite shoes worn by Taylor Swift is these rainbow-hued ostrich sandals, trimmed with silver leather, soft black suede and baby-blue feathers. Style this statement with a powder pink satin slip teamed with pink satin band black lace robe with fluffy pink peep toe shoes. Feathers and fur are a huge footwear trend right now, high street fashion trend is hot all because of Sophia Webster combined with the VS show.
My Thoughts on Sustainability
Every material that we use has a environmental story behind it. This usually consist on effluent, pollution, scarred landscapes, poisoned water and health hazards of workers, this is called the ‘Hidden Ugliness” behind beautiful products that customers buy, use temporary and then thrown away to damage the environment more. Its up to us as designers to make a change and a difference to the world. Both designers and the consumer are now just starting to think of ways that products are made and what happens when it is disposed. The issue of sustainability has recently become a consideration when we choose our products. In a way it reflect our values. Our values need to evolve so that the world can perceive products from a different frame of reference. Only now i am fully aware of how the fashion industry is acting and ways that I can share my ideas to help this situation.
Johanna Ho - Sustainable Fashion/Jewellery
Hong Kong based fashion designer Johanna ho, creates sustainable - eco-friendly practices in materials into her fashion and jewellery pieces. Johanna is a founding member of the " Sustainable Fashion Business Consortium". Her core knitted designs uses up-cycling methods used by clothes that are donated by artists and pop singers to create fresh and unique pieces, giving the garment new designs.
Shows that you can use natural sources such as berries to create a natural dye in fibres. The sustainability aspect of this method uses low water consumption for cultivation, no fertiliser necessary and its biodegradable. Its properties is free from chemicals and breathable.
Leather has been the standard material for fashion accessories for generations. Leather is used from animal skin, this results in killing depending on the animal. The animal skin becomes durable in a chemical tanning process. The steps include: the skin is preserved through dying or salting and prepared for transportation. This is to remove particles of dirt and blood. From this natural tans have been created to help the environment in a small way. This includes alternative tanning processes:
TREE BARK FLEECE
Tree bark fleece is the most ancient textile method in the history of mankind. It is a biomaterial made from the bark of the African Ficus tree. It is ecological, economical and socially sustainable. The company BARK CLOTH was recognised as the top 10 for its fabric innovations by the ‘Launch system challenge: fabric’. The company sells and innovative material that is produced using traditional methods and to support the founding culture who uses this method of creating textiles.
Reclaimed textiles : techniques for paper, stitch, plastic and mixed media / Kim Thittichai, 9th Dec 2014.
This book presents how to recycle and repurpose material such as paper, stitch, plastic and mixed media. Re-use discarded packaging or material to create textile art that are cost-effective, green and have a sense of heritage.
Lotta Barlach - pieces are intended to be worn on the body. this piece shows her using yellow rubber gloves made as a dress.
Clare Goddard - recycling materials made for fashion accessories. Uses materials that have their own unique identity and history from the marks, stains and teach which the new materials don't obtain. Her bag designs are created using tea bags.
Evy Saunders - uses recycle paper bags in her flower arrangement hand bag and floral check shopper bag 1999.
From the Materials Library gave me an insight on what types of materials are sustainable, most of the material that were, was the fabrics of cotton, felts and so on. I am quite interested in using this material in my work as it comes from natural resources and does not damage the environment.
Wool a sustainable fabric
Wool is a renewable resource that can be shorn from the sheep naturally. Sheep need to be sheared in early spring to be comfortable in the summer, and when it comes to winter the wool grows back. This is making the sheep stay healthy and in good condition. It is biodegradable which make it kinder to the environment when disposed. Wool is sustainable, many organic farmers are coming back to using this method as its clean and healthy, without stress to the animals and to the environment. Wool is more sustainable when people buy organic wool, meaning the sheep have been raised without any harmful chemicals. Organic wool yarn is not chemically treated during the entire production process, from the farm to the finishing garment of product.
Lamb's Wool - the first fleece shorn from a sheep, generally having a softer feel to the fiber. The sheep is not harmed, only shorn as usual.
Virgin Wool - wool that has not been previously processed. It is not referring to the sheep in any way.
Boiled Wool - an additional step where wool fabric is boiled after it's been woven. It also is not referring to the sheep in any way
ACTION PLAN - Central Saint Martins students mostly show fashion trends right off the catwalk, from their serious love for fashion design. These photos were taken from style.com, where I saw the most extraordinary outfits worn by BA students. This is my starting point for developing a consumer profile in who I am selling and designing my product. The style that I should be basing my design on is, comfortable jewellery, as Its winter and students are wearing warm long coats, its possible that i could bring some textiles into my pieces by placing it on the neck as students are wearing turtle necks and need a bit of glam to their wardrobe.
Laura Bezant, Leather Neckpiece, 2005
Lazer cut leather neckpiece with silver fastening. This piece gave me on idea on how to stick words together without having to show what they really mean. Knitting words into a textile piece representing love.
Containment and Containers (Primary Research)
Black & Decker
Write a summary on the history and nature of your given brand (Interesting information)
Black and Decker is the most popular power tool brand in the UK. Furthermore, it is the biggest manufacturer of power tools in the world with an unsurpassed global distribution network. Its one of the leading manufactures of lawn and gardening power tools and accessories. The brand continues to place emphasis on the importance of design, research and development. Black & Decker produces a wide range of tools and products for the home and garden. Black & Decker's power tools range includes cordless drills, jigsaws and sanders.
Cordless Power Drills
The cordless power drill was introduce by the collaboration of NASA and Black & Decker as NASA couldn't drill samples out of the moon with a corded drill. They teamed up with a lil company called Black and Decker to make battery operated versions for moonwalks and built a whole DIY industry by accident.
Black & Decker aims to produce innovative products f and value for money or its consumers, whilst maintaining high quality. Black & Decker has increased its strong hold over the rest of the market by developing its multi-functional tools range. Black & Decker aims to ensure that its products are both exciting and challenging, but remain the best tools for the job.
- 1910- Black & Decker began in by two Americans, Duncan Black and Alonzo Decker to form their own manufacturing company. The brand started off with a range of equipment for the US mint, to bottle capping machinery.
- 1914 - begun to produce the goods for which it would subsequently become world-renowned. Opened in Boston and New York and a new factory was built in Towson, Maryland, to cope with the phenomenal growth.
- 1922 - Branch out to Canada
- 1928 - The first factory was built in the UK, which produced a range of heavy-duty tools including tappers, screwdrivers and grinders.
- 1946 - Black & Decker created home tools to expand products. The company decided to make tools specifically aimed at this market — the company is now know as the DIY market.
- 1960s - saw further expansion, with the opening of new branches in Scandinavia as well as in the UK, and the opening of new headquarters in Maidenhead. Black & Decker turned its hand to 'space development' in association with the National Aeronautical and Space Agency (NASA). Black & Decker devised a cordless zero-torque space tool, used on the Gemini project, and in the early 1970s, a Black & Decker moon drill was used to remove core samples from the lunar surface.
- 2000 - Black & Decker launched a sawing range, making a traditionally hard working tool, into a safe and efficient one with three blades for different sawing needs.
- 2003 - the popular Quattro Multi-tool was relaunched. The 14.4V Quattro Multi-tool is an all-in-one answer to the four key DIY tasks -- drilling, sanding, screwdriving and jigsawing -- achieved with its interchangeable heads. The Quattro¨ Multi-tool is one of the most successful and easy to use power tools on the DIY market.
Victorian Dress + Electricity Inspiration (Black & Decker + The Leighton House)
Designer Hussein Chalayan
Designer Hussein Chalayan combined both fashion technology with a twist of influence from the Victoria Era. Producing a Victorian crinoline like cage dress with futuristic metal plates to create a modern day twist for the future.
Martin Maison Face Mask Inspiration
From the idea of using rose petals and futuristic technology (Black & Deckers) and how rose petals are smothering people in the painting of “The Roses of Heliogabalus” by Alma-Tadema. Designer Marin Mason Margiela came into my head as the smothering of embroidered face masks to hide the models face behind marble, crystal veils and flowers.
Chain mail techniques
Inspiration comes from ancient chain maille patterns. Experiments with the scale, weight, form and texture of the chains making body jewellery. I enjoy how her work is designed and how it is durable, light but volumes and can be translated into soft forms which connect with the body.
“waste not, want not” generation, she was encouraged from a early age on to recycle material. Her work consists of transforming the physicality of the most mundane of materials, giving them new form and purpose. Transforming them into a new purpose. I love her christmas collection using the red, white and green colour scheme and translating her designs into christmas inspired pieces such as snowflakes created into rings. Techniques that she uses is knitting.
Texture on metal
Kayo Saito’s work is inspired by the natural form of pants that are fragility and structured to fill her aesthetic sense. She creates unusual delicate sculptural forms in the shape of precious jewellery. In my opinion, her jewellery work shows simplicity and looks very delicate. I see myself wear this type of jewellery as it is also very stunning and could wear it on a daily basis.
Techniques used in collection: piercing, filing, soldering, forging, fixing findings. Making texture on metal (optional).
I have always been inspired by her label as it reflects on my personality from its style of classic hollywood glamour. To make her collection luxurious and feminine with a side of humour. I am inspired by her designs as you can wear it both casual and formal. My favourite design is the Kitten Flat and Heel shoes as it is a very smart and cute design for cat lovers (like myself) and shows a twist in what a high heel shoe could actually be.
Education: London Collage of Fashion in Footwear Design.
Technology: All shoes are hand made in Italy and uses a advanced modelling technology.
Style: classic hollywood cinematic glamour with a sense of humour.
Notable Clientele: Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Daphne Guinness, Katy Perry, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kelly Osbourne.
Sold: Charlotte Olympia is sold across the world, this includes Harrods, Liberty, Harvey Nichols and many other department stores.
Rowan Mersh has a similar textile aspect to his designs to Nora Fok. Rowan Mersh explores the form of intuitive application of material to inherent its qualities. He takes ordinary materials then makes it extraordinary. His work expresses the each textile characteristics from their structure, the way it is knitted, woven or formed to the yarns used in their construction, form the platform of his practice. He takes fabric then compresses it into sculptural forms that are placed on the body.
knitting, knotting, weaving and tying
Nora Fok uses fishing line and nylon as her main materials to create her body jewellery. Nora sticks with traditional techniques such as knitting, knotting, weaving and tying the fishing wire together to create different types of texture and shapes. Her designed are wearable sculpture forms for the female body. I am most interested in how she create that spiral effect which are flat and 3-D. The material that she uses is smart as fishing line is easy to shape and is light. I must try to use this material for future projects.
Street Decoration Inspiration
From the Christmas displays on Oxford Street, I decided to research and take photos of inspiring designs (shapes, material and products) to help to inspire my design thoughts to create a jewellery piece for my client. I had to make sure that I based my research on the facts given to me from my client. The facts included: quirky but elegance style, cozy and comfortable things, extraordinary products and based around the idea of Christmas.
I immediacy noticed the street Christmas decorations of wired fairy lights and blown up wired snowflakes that lighted up. This was most influential piece, as I could use this design shape on the human body.
I came across a new designer, Marco Bicego, who displayed a collection of silver and gold jewellery that really inspired me. His work caught my eye as the simplicity and elegance of the designs, I instantly tell each individual piece was hand crafted. Inspiration comes from his roots in Italy, and values the details and secrets of italian jewellery. The uniqueness of jewels are shown through the artisanal craftsmanship and imperfect shapes.
Techniques: His skills were passed down by his Father who was also a jeweller, therefore the skill he uses are quite advanced. Marco Bicego uses a hand twisted coil technique in most of his creations to create a modern ‘twist’ to gold material. The brand uses a traditional tool ‘Bulino’, that devised for the art of hand carving to give the finish product a fine brush texture.
MADE. IN CLERKENWELL
For extra research I visited Craft Central which is a open studio displaying individual artists work of craft and design-from fashion, jewellery and accessories. This was a great experience as I got to meet designers who did Textile Design, Print and also Jewellery.
Jessica De Lotz http://www.jessicadelotz.co.uk/about Jessica translates stories within her bespoke jewellery collection. She individually hand-stampd and personalised, wax seal jewellery.
lorna boyle - based Irish designer specialising in jewellery and metalwork. Inspired by who the metal is melted creating that natural effect.
Katie Victoria Davis - a contemporary textile designer that specialising in knitted textiles. She creates masterpieces by using a single thread of yarn transformed into a vibrant textured design. She uses a domestic knitting machine to create her pieces (handbags).
Sian O'Doherty, Textiles Designer ://sianodoherty.co.uk/info/: Inspired by the natural beauty of her home landscape in Wales, to combines rich traditional patterns and techniques of Welsh textiles, she uses woven and knitted fabrics for fashion and interior accessories.
Sophia Webster X Victoria Secret Fashion Show 2014
Material revolution 2 [electronic resource] : new sustainable and multi-purpose materials for design and architecture / Sascha Peters, 9th December 2014
Natural Tanned Leather Methods
Olive Leather - the use of olive oil production, low-toxin, semifinished leather to reduce the environment burden resulting in was being non-toxic and easier to dispose of or to recycle.
Rhubarb Leather - extracts from the root of the rhubarb plant for tanning process that is free of toxins, heavy metals and chrome salts. the leather is breathable and skin-compatible also biodegradable resulting no harm caused to the natural cycle.
Alternative Sources of Leather
Bovine Stomach Leather - from the cow stomach (rumen). Its structure represents a honeycomb making it interesting pattern for fashion accessories.
Fish Leather - unusual source of leather production, however is produced in small quantities from the size of the fish. The fish leather can be used only in the niche areas.
Properties/Sustainable Aspect of Natural Tans/Leather - All natural tanned leather and other sources of leather material properties induces flexibility and colour fastness is comparable to leather tanned using mineral salts, dimensionally stable, breathable, tight-grained and skin-compatible. Sustainable aspect of leather treatment is using renewable raw material, no use of environmentally harmful chrome salts and metals, no allergic reaction and is also biodegradable.
WOOD MATERIAL - TREE BARK
Recycled Banners into Bags (Barcelona)
Experimental eco-design : architecture, fashion, product / Cara Brower, Rachel Mallory, Zachary Ohlman
- Wool is a natural insulator to keep you warm in the winter and is breathable
- Its a natural absorbent fibre
- Natural mildew and mild resistance
- Water repellent
- wrinkle resistant
- fir retardant
- resists static, dirt and dust
- renewable and sustainable
Hong Kong Beaches (GLASS)
Glass in Hong Kong
Glass recycling in Hong Kong has not always been such a big problem. Back in the old days, deposit-and-return systems for glass bottles were widely employed, this fell out of use over the years due to the large-scale transition undergone by beverage containers from mainly glass to a mixture of glass, paper, plastic and aluminum. The deposit-and-return practice became less cost-effective for grocery stores and the like to maintain.
Local glass manufacturers, which are able to process large quantities of waste glass but require a lot of space and need to keep their melting batches, the business got too energy-consuming and expensive to be sustainable. By the late 60s, Hong Kong’s glass manufacturing industry basically ceased to exist.
- ACTION PLAN
Therefore Hong Kong has decreased their recycling system on glass bottles and are not being recycled as much as before. This is why I want to research the possibilities on how to recycling left over glass and create a sustainable jewellery piece. My next research will lead me to do a beach clean up and discover parts of glass.
Hong Kongers still leaving beach litter despite causing damage to the environment
Findings on Internet (Ocean Park Website)
Broken pieces of glass (mostly from glass bottles) comprised over 20% of the total number of items collected this year. This is the second year that glass is the No.1 marine debris. Despite the fact that a trade-funded voluntary Glass Container Recycling Programme for the Hotel Sector was launched in November 2008, the problem of waste glass bottles still persists and needs to be resolved by a more effective recycling programme.
Candles were in the top ten list of debris again, indicating a low level of public awareness on the need to be responsible for the waste caused by festival celebrations such as the mid-autumn festival and national day.
With ‘cups, plates, forks, knives, spoons’ in the top ten of many years, it appears that Hong Kong citizens are not prepared to clean up after themselves. Citizens need to be reminded that they should be responsible for the rubbish caused by these activities.
HELLE JORGENSEN aka GOOSEFLESH: Wool inspiration
Gooseflesh is my main inspiration for my small change project as she uses reclaimed materials to create fresh takes on nature.For example she uses recycled bags to make sea creatures or reclaimed wool to make coral gardens. In addition to her crochet work she does artistic collecting, embroidery and drawing.
Although this was my main idea at the beginning of the project, but I realised my ideas were similar to her work. As I want to create a theme of the ocean to express the environmental issue of pollution and trash and how it is affecting marine life. I am still going to develop this theme in my project, also to experiment with wool techniques.
About: Liz Nilsson uses technology to create most work such as laser cutting and print, to explore ideas of memory and time, recall and habit and incorporating strings of fabric to represent her family history. Liz’s work is inspired by her past life by leaving traces of memories in her work by collection objects that have a meaning.
My Opinions: The use of shapes in her pieces are bold, collections contain brighter colours and more textured fabric, such as the Sub Rosa - Under the Rose. This piece incorporates print, tactile mark making. She uses materials to express her interests and to show replication using different textures and colours. Also the idea of tying sting to represent family is inspiring.
Ideas: Experiment with wool and knitting and describing love into these pieces.
Places I've Been (Inspiration from Liz Nilsson)
Debbie Smyth: Inspired by memories
Textiles are a important element of culture in many part of the world. Some countries have ancient stories woven into their patterns, using rare quality fabrics. Textiles techniques old methods gets passed down along generations. Now textiles in mass produced in local markets around the world which is growing devaluation of textiles arts, and is becoming more difficult to make a living from textiles.
I have researched and recorded of all the places i have been to and how each culture uses a different techniques in textiles. This is to improve my cultural awareness into textiles history.
AROUND THE WORLD TEXTILES
Inspired by Ruffles + Knots
Methods that I have already been using in my designs are:
- burning wool
- melting plastic to shape around fabric
- dying fabric
- using natural source (grass, dirt)
- ripping plastic bags
- newspaper cutting
Brief: The Leighton House Museum
Leighton House is located in the Holland Park district of Kensington and Chelsea in London. This wonderful building is the former home of Lord Frederic Leighton, a painter and sculptor associated with the Pre-Raphaelites. The original home was built in the 1860s, with several extensions added later. In 1929 Leighton House was opened to the public as a museum, and its permanent collection includes paintings by Burne-Jones, Watts and Millais, as well as dozens of works by Lord Leighton himself.
The Roses of Heliogabalus
Write a summary on the history and nature of your given establishment (important Information)
Leighton House Museum is the former home of the Victorian artist Frederic, Lord Leighton (1830-1896). The only purpose-built studio-house open to the public in the United Kingdom, it is one of the most remarkable buildings of the nineteenth century, containing a fascinating collection of paintings and sculpture by Leighton and his contemporaries. The house consist of mosaic and walls lined with beautiful Islamic tiles. The house provides a unique insight into the wealth, status and taste of successful artists in the late-Victorian period as Queen Victoria stayed in the house.
History of the house
“He built the house as it now stands for his own artistic delight. Every stone of it had been the object of his loving care. It was a joy to him until the moment when he lay down to die.'
Leighton’s sisters in a Letter to The Times, 26 January 1899
The Arab Hall Extension: 18877-81
Leighton traveled to Turkey in 1867, to Egypt in the following year and to Syria in 1873. On each of these trips he collected textiles, pottery and other objects that were later to be displayed in his house. In 1877, Leighton began the construction of the Arab Hall. The interior contained mosaics and marbles and skilled craftsmen sourced in London
The Silk Room: 1894-5
The silk room was designed as a picture gallery to expand the collection of paintings by Leighton contemporaries. This included painters such as Albert Moore, John Everett Millais, George Frederic Watts, John Singer Sargent and Lawrence Alma-Tadema, many who were the leading painters of the day.
The museum consist of 76 oil painting by Leighton. This included small painted colour sketches that he produced for exhibition at the Royal Academy. Most work was made when he was travelling.
The Leighton Drawings
The largest single collection in the museum and one of the largest deposits of drawings of 700 of Leighton's sketches and studies. Drawn from the contents of Leighton's studio at the time of his death, the collection was designed to be representative of his output to demonstrate his skill as a draughtsman. The collection includes sketches made as boy, through to studies for his most celebrated works including Cimabue's Celebrated Madonna and Flaming June.
The museum holds a small collection of personal objects associated with Leighton's life. These include palettes and pigments, his seal, and a collection of 26 international honours and diplomas presented to Leighton.
Primary Research - Fortnum & Mason
Katsuya Kamo Japanese hair designer created many great headpiece for runways shows throughout the years. I am inspired by so many headpieces such as the feminine paper roses showcased in the Chanel Spring 2009 Couture collection, and the dark, drapery and sculptural pieces for Junya Watanabe's Fall 2008 collection. Kamo collided with Lane Crawford creating exclusive floral works for Lane Crawford's spring Botanica theme.